Story by Ann Ruppenstein
As our convoy of Jeep Wranglers — blood red, bright yellow, and dark grey — zipped past striking views of the imposing Table Mountain range towards miles of sloped vineyards, tour guide Marzahn Botha shared that Capetonians have found the perfect antidote for those suffering from a bad case of grouchiness.
“How can you look at a penguin and still stay angry?” says Botha, a driver with the all-female-operated Jeep Tours Cape Town, smiling from behind the steering wheel. The first stop on our road trip adventure is Boulders Beach, home to a colony of African penguins that has multiplied from two breeding pairs in 1982 to more than 2,000 penguins today, garnering a reputation as a must-see on itineraries to South Africa’s second largest city.
While I’m certainly not in a bad mood on arrival, as I witness several penguins waddle their stubby legs down the beach to submerge into the water, I can’t help but feel happy. “The beach has these huge granite boulders and that’s where the name Boulders Beach comes from,” she explains.
Topping penguin thrills is not an easy feat, but as we round the corner at the nearby Cape Point Vineyards estate a short while later and encounter sommelier Sifi waiting on the side of the road with bottles of chilled wine, ready to hold a private hillside wine tasting overlooking the Atlantic coast, I’m ready and willing to give it a shot. After a glass (or two in the name of research) of the reserve Sauvignon Blanc that’s been aged in French Oak barrels and made to “carry the characteristics of a completely different grape — chardonnay,” we head to the main building of the winery for a Braai luncheon, a local term for a social gathering of friends and family where the meat is prepared over an open fire or an outdoor grill, for an experience that lives up to the name.
(PSA: It’s not only handy to have a DD so you can delve into the local wine scene while on tour, it can also be a wise idea since South Africans drive on the left side of the road, which can be a little daunting for North American travellers. Day trips are fully customizable and can include wine tastings at notable estates in Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, and Constantia or thrilling rides through white sand dunes.)
Back in the Jeep, stuffed, with the top down and the wind blowing in my hair, the journey continued along Chapman’s Peak Drive. With its dramatic coastal views, it’s easy to see why this stretch of the road is consistently named one of the most scenic drives in the world. The winding road has 114 curves and rivals the Road to Hana in Maui or the Amalfi Coast in Italy for its beauty. “I think this is one of the most beautiful places in the world,” Botha notes, approaching a section of the road that is cut into the side of a mountain on the edge of the water.
The last stop of the day sees us return to where we began, at the President Hotel, a luxury property that’s part of Preferred Hotels & Resorts. With spacious rooms and an on-site spa offering unique treatments like the Table Mountain Hot Stone Massage, it’s an idyllic place to relax and recharge after a long day of adventure. But should you still have some energy left, the hotel is in close proximity to the beachfront boardwalk, busy with joggers at all times of day. With a prime location near Lion’s Head mountain, it’s also a convenient spot to depart for a morning hike, with the reward for summiting the peak being unforgettable views of the city below and Table Mountain in the distance. Of course, sleeping in is also an option.
With properties spanning from the vineyards of Portugal to the white-sand beaches of the Maldives, Six Senses is a wellness leader that continues to evolve with the times.
Next up, we’ve traded in our Jeeps to explore Bo-Kaap, a historic community known for its vivid and colourful houses, on foot. Along with hands-on culinary lessons, Zayed Harris of Bo-Kaap Cooking Tour provides insights into the significance of the neighbourhood, which was long populated by slaves. In front of lime green and hot pink houses, Harris explains that during the Apartheid era, people of colour were restricted from owning property in the area.
Fast-forward to 1980, at the height of the political struggle of South Africa, and Bo-Kaap was at the heart of the unrest. "The Apartheid regime noticed that," explains Harris, "and to calm the community down, they allowed us to purchase the houses our families had lived in for hundreds of years. We grabbed our savings, bought our houses and the cheapest paint available, and like naughty kids with crayons, we went crazy with colour."
While the pastel-painted houses still represent that expression of freedom, identity, and cultural heritage, Harris says the colours change frequently, with the only rule being that you can’t paint your house the same colour as your neighbour's. "Next time you're here, if you find yourself thinking, 'Now wasn't that house green before?' trust your gut, it probably was." According to Harris, it's common for owners to slap on a fresh coat of paint every five years or so.
Today, Harris’s family focuses on teaching visitors how to make traditional Cape Malay dishes ranging from spicy curries to stews, roti, and samosas. “Cape Malay cuisine is synonymous with Cape Town; you won’t find this anywhere else in the world,” he says. Joining his mom and sister, we try our hand at preparing a lunch feast loaded with culinary traditions. The best part, of course, is getting to taste our creations, which are delicious beyond words.
For another amazing vantage point, the coast of Cape Town is a sight to behold from above. Taking to the skies with NAC Helicopters Cape Town is another uplifting experience. Soaring over Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela spent most of his prison sentence, and seeing the coastal mansions in the affluent Clifton suburb area against the backdrop of the Lion’s Head peak 669 metres in the air, the flight is nothing short of spectacular. The experience kicks off with a glass of bubbly and a walk down a red carpet to meet your pilot, setting the tone for what’s to come.
But the experience that garners the most envy from those back home is hitting the open road with Cape Sidecar Adventures in a sidecar attached to a vintage motorbike. Throughout the city we attract attention from countless onlookers who smile and wave as we zoom by. Pulling into the 12 Apostles Mountain Range, which actually has 18 peaks, I step out of my sweet ride and take in the scenery in awe. Wherever your own adventure in Cape Town takes you, it’ll no doubt have some good views. And if you’re ever in doubt or in a bad mood, head to the penguins.
