By Ann Ruppenstein
Soaring through the sky, staring at the imposing snow-capped Tungurahua volcano while swinging from the edge of a cliff perched 2,660 metres above sea level, I'm having trouble finding the courage to raise my arms up in the air.
My mind is telling me that I'm strapped in securely, but with each swing forward, my eyes understand another story entirely: it feels more like I'm precariously close to plunging into the great abyss below. I can't quite grasp that I am safe, but after hearing the shouts of encouragement from onlookers with their feet planted on solid ground, I eventually manage to lift up both arms and smile for the camera.
I'm on The Swing at the End of the World, a fitting name for a swing that hangs over a steep canyon at Casa del Árbol in Baños, Ecuador. It's just one of countless postcard-worthy views this week.
For many, Ecuador is the gateway to the Galapagos, a stepping stone on your way to those famed islands in the Pacific Ocean with their giant tortoises, sea lions, and blue-footed boobies. But faced with these incredible landscapes, I'm convinced that the mainland can also be the main attraction.
"The mainland of Ecuador is truly worth exploring, offering an amazing mix of landscapes, cultures,and adventures, all packed into a surprisingly compact area," says Gina Winston of The Bucket List Diary Travel. "It's like a lesser-known version of Peru, offering incredible hiking, zip-lining, canyoning, and more... This isn't a destination for lounging on the beach, it's a place to dive into nature, explore breathtaking landscapes, and truly experience the outdoors."
From canyoneering across Andean waterfalls to zip-lines and via ferrata climbs, Baños is the place to go for adventure activities surrounded by unforgettable views. But even those seeking a calmer experience will find lots to experience, like hot springs, spa treatments, horseback riding, volcanos, waterfalls, and charming streets lined with shops, cafés, and restaurants.
While Tena is considered the entrypoint to the Amazon rainforest, it's also known as the whitewater rafting capital of Ecuador, which is why I decided to put my trust in rafting instructor Tim Dent of the River People. After an overly thrilling experience capsizing in Uganda made me contemplate never rafting again, Dent eased my concerns and, somehow, while navigating the whitewater rapids along the Jatunyacu River, I found myself having a good time. After the excitement and thrills of the rapids subsided, we continued down the calmer portion of the river – formed from the glaciers and springs at Cotopaxi Volcano – at golden hour. Our group name was Tim's Angels, and we quickly felt bonded by going through the magnificent experience together.
It is still dark as we wake up early one morning in a treehouse lodge in the Amazon rainforest in Tena. We are heading out on a morning boat safari to spot wildlife. Woolly monkeys, spider monkeys, and the rarer capuchins quickly capture the group's attention. But as the boat drifts further down the river past bird species such as the tiger heron, the sounds of nature and the jungle come alive. Suddenly, emerging from the depth of the water are several large arapaima fish who swim to the surface and make clapping sounds as they suck back their food. Reaching up to three metres in length and weighing up to 440 pounds, arapaima are among the world's largest freshwater fish, and are a sight to behold.
Later in the day, we're reunited with our safari guides in the Indigenous community they live in, where 64 people work together to keep their traditions and culture alive. We're greeted with handcrafted headbands made from woven palm leaves. After learning about their methods of sourcing food and medicine, we're told that a staple of Kichwa life is chicha, a fermented yuca drink dubbed "Jungle Red Bull Tea." It's white in colour and tastes tangy. We spend the afternoon cooking, dancing, and tasting freshly made chocolate from cocoa beans before it's time to explore the property. After a short hike, we come face-to-face with yet another swing.
DO
Take a hike at Cotopaxi, one of the world's highest active volcanoes, or head to the Parque Aventura San Martín for a 90-metre via ferrata climb with impressive canyon views. For another heart-pumping adventure, try canyoneering across Andean waterfalls in Baños or white-water rafting in Tena with the River People.
STAY
In a rainforest treehouse with Suites at Sacha Lodge, which have large balconies overlooking the lush forest.
DINE
Head to Claroscuro Gastro Bar in Quito to taste traditional dishes such as Ecuadorian ceviche. Be sure to try Locro de papa, a traditional creamy Ecuadorian potato and cheese soup paired with avocado. Give cuy a chance? As in Peru, guinea pig is a delicacy in Ecuador.
DRINK
Taste a flight of local craft brews at Santana Brewing Company & Tasting Lounge or Sinners Microcerveceria.
CONNECT
For an experience that will stay with you, organize a visit to one of the Amazonian community villages in Tena.
